The Suzuki Project

I'm late posting this but on Tuesday the Suzuki went to a new home. I took pictures of it Sunday after dinner and posted them Monday on KSL classifieds. A few people inquired of the bike and one made an offer. I've already been chewed out by everyone for letting it go so cheap. I only got 600.00 out of it and probably should have tried selling it other places as well. But, the damage is done and after meeting Chris, the buyer, I feel like it went to a good home.

Here is a little photo montage to remember it by:

Step 1: Learn how to read. Or at least how to look at pictures.

I was not only missing one of the clutch rings from the set but I didn't have the clutch bolted to the bike. It was spinning free and had no way of engaging. After draining the oil, opening the case adjusting the clutch(to include adding missing parts), setting the timing, closing the case and adjusting the points, TWICE, we got the clutch to engage the way we wanted it to. Brant took the maiden voyage and shortly after he returned I took the bike out.

Our first discovery was that it wasn't firing on the right cylinder. It may have been a result of the petcock not putting any fuel to that carb. After we each rode the bike once, Trev included, we found the right selection for the petcock valve and the second time Brant took the bike he had blue smoke coming out of all four pipes.

It seemed like that 3rd cylinder was either engaging at about 6500-7000 rpm or that is the bikes power band because once the motor hit that area it would really open up. I'll bet the bike would really scream if the carbs were tuned and firing on all cylinders.

I need to fix the turn signals. They come on but do not blink. And the rear brakes need replacing. The front brakes need adjusting at the least and maybe replacing as well.

Now that I've rode the bike I can let it go to a nice new home without any regrets.

Dr. Frankenstein's green monster arose from the dead today. Like everything else with this project we had to do it twice. I forgot to line up the timing marks inside the crank case the first time we put it together so Trev drained the oil and we started over again. The second time was the charm. After a little carb cleaner in the pistons, for a prime, the green monster came to life. It sounds like a chain saw but it runs hard.

Here is the bad news. The clutch still won't engage the motor. On the center stand it will spin but the weight of the bike is enough to stop it. I may throw in the towel and sell it as is now that Trev has a bike.

As always, Dad came through with just the fix I need. Today he had someone at the school weld a washer on to the timing plate with the tig. I'll have to cut it down a little and grind it smooth but that will be easy with my new pneumatic angle grinder. Once I get that little piece smoothed out we can put it back together.

I do want to make some internal clutch adjustments before closing up the cover again.

I finally ordered a new gear for the bike. I also ordered the pin that is missing but wasn't able to order the timing plate so we'll have to weld it back together. Out the door it was $45.00. With a $30.00 gasket kit and $20.00 for a battery, maybe that much again in oil, carb cleaner and such, I figure that I'm in it a little over $100.00.

I told Rachel already that as soon as it is running I'll put it up for sale. I'll ride it around until it sells of course. I pulled up the NADA guide values for the bike and posted them below. I would like your input on what would be a reasonable asking price for the bike since you've all seen it.

Excellent:		$2,875
Very Good:		$1,875
Good:		$1,375
Fair:		$500
Poor:		N/A

Value Explanations

Prices shown are retail consumer values and to be considered as selling prices.

Excellent — A very correct and original (even if it shows the patina of its age) or an exceptionally well-restored motorcycle. This category is reserved for concours or show quality machines only, in which everything on the machine is fully functional and operates as new. All equipment is original, new old stock (NOS) factory replacements or uses of excellent quality reproductions parts. *Over restored machines (custom paint, over polishing or chroming) do not fit in this category as those activities detracts from the originality of the machine.

Very Good — A very presentable, original motorcycle that may show signs of minimal wear or a fully (mechanically and cosmetically) restored motorcycle that does not meet concours standards, perhaps due to the age of the restoration or overall quality. All systems are fully operational and the machine is not in need of repairs. *Most non-professionally restored done correctly would fit in this category.

Good — A machine in nice condition for its age that may need some minor mechanical attention and cosmetic rejuvenation to be a “good rider”. Bikes in this category generally look used but are still usable, whether it is for dirt or street use. Frames should be straight and unaltered. *The replacement of tires, tubes, brakes, chain, sprockets, air filters and other minor parts should be anticipated.

Fair — A motorcycle that is worthy core for restoration. This would exclude machines with major frame and engine modifications that would be cost prohibitive to return to original specifications. All mechanical and cosmetic aspects of the machine will need attention in the restoration process. This is a complete motorcycle with most if not all of its body, engine and suspension components intact, albeit in poor condition. *Motorcycles with missing engines or major components are commonly referred to as “parts bikes” and are not covered in this category.

Poor — Used for Harley-Davidson and Indian motorcycles only. A poor condition motorcycle has been used and abused and needs major mechanical and/or sheet metal work. It may or may not run. Alterations are evident to frame or sheet metal. Motorcycle is missing or has incorrect parts, i.e. fenders, tank, seat, mechanics, installed. To some individuals this is a “project or parts bike” at best. A #5 motorcycle is one best left to the professional for restoration.

We finally got that nylon gear off today. It was very broken. The gear itself is nylon and is mounted to a metal bushing. My first thought was that we could have a new gear machined but that isn't going to be the case. So the search is on for 1973 plastic parts.